With the endless amount of charming Old Towns, brilliant blue seas hugging the coastline, and perfect sunny weather (yes, our tans are looking amazing!), we can see why tourists flock to Croatia.
Our 13-day road trip (18th to 30th July) was sensational, but we definitely won’t miss being stuck amongst thousands of tourists constantly walking at the speed of a funeral procession. Note, if you don’t like crowds, avoid Croatia in July!
We owe a big thank you to Pavel’s friends who kindly loaned us their station wagon for our trip. It proved a lot more reliable than our van, for sure!
Here’s a little video of our road trip to Slovenia and The Balkans (watch in HD)…
We followed the below route on the Croatia, Montenegro and Bosnia & Herzegovina part of our road trip. The letters on the map are referred to in our blog below.
Day 1 – Quick stopover at Lake Bled and stay overnight in Ljubljana in Slovenia
With the picturesque town of Bled in Slovenia being on the way to our first destination in Croatia, we took the opportunity to stop in for a rest from the long drive. The famous Lake Bled is a must for anyone visiting Slovenia! We spent the afternoon swimming in the refreshing water, taking a stroll around the lake and having a coffee and traditional Bled Cream Cake (“Kremna Rezina”). Although I don’t highly rate the super strong coffees here in Europe, the cake was to-die-for! The church on Lake Bled island (see photo below) can be visited by boat ride or hiring your own row boat at the lake.
With accommodation being a lot cheaper in the nearby Slovenia capital city of Ljubljana, we stayed overnight at a hostel here being continuing onto the next leg of our road trip.
Day 2 – Rovinj, Pula (A) and Pag Island (B)
Our first destination point in Croatia was the stunning little town of Rovinj, where we spent a couple of hours wandering through the medieval Old Town streets, strolling up the hill to the Church of St. Euphemia for the up-high views, and soaking up the sun and salty air along the Port of Rovinj with gelato in hand. With this town being close to the Italian border, there’s no shortage of gelato to sample, and what a picturesque spot to enjoy it!
Following Rovinj, we hit the road again for our next stopover town 45-minutes away, Pula. The drawcard for our visit here was the 1st century amphitheatre, Pula Arena, constructed in 27 BC to 68 AD. It is among the six largest surviving Roman arenas in the world. These days, the amphitheatre is used as a venue for music concerts.
Next on the list was Prizna, a 3-hour drive from Pula, where we caught the car ferry across to the barren and rocky island ofย Pag. Here, we stayed at accomodation in the seaside town of Novalja – great spot for a sunset stroll along the esplanade lined with food and souvenir stalls.
Day 3 – visiting Lun and Ruฤica Beach on Pag Island, followed by Zadar (C)
We started our first morning on Pag Island with a drive to the very eastern tip to a small town called Lun. This place is home to some of the oldest olive trees in the world, approximately 80,000 of them! With such a rocky, barren landscape, it is hard to imagine that anything could grow here, let alone olives trees as old as 1,500 to 2,000 years old. The signage in the gardens could be improved though. We got a little lost making our way back to the car and ended up back on the main road about 1km from the car park! Before leaving, we bought a bottle of olive oil from their little shop as a gift for Pav’s Mum.
In need of a swim after the morning of walking in the scorching heat, we headed to one of Pag Island’s more secluded beaches to escape the crowds (because there’s lots of them in Croatia!) Ruฤica Beachย is a rocky beach hidden behind a hill in the bay of Pag. Although bloody painful to walk out of the water barefoot, being in the water was perfect – warm and crystal clear!
With our accomodation for the night in Zadar, we headed there after making some considerable improvement on our European summer tans. Our drive through the island of Pag towards Zadar was awe-inspiring – the constrast of the brilliant blue sea surrounding such a barren, rocky landscape is such a unique sight. Some say the landscape could be compared to the moon! On the way, we stopped in at a roadside stall for some “paลกki sir” (Pag cheese), a scrumptious cheese made from sheep’s milk which the island is well-known for.
Unfortunately, once we reached Zadar, we were more than ready for some chill out time in our apartment so we missed the sunset that Zadar is so famous for. ย But instead, we took a night time stroll through the Old Town to visit the also famous Monument to the Sun (a circular solar-powered monument on the pavement next to the sea which produces a colourful light show at night) and the Sea Organย (made of large tubes underneath a set of steps leading to the sea, and plays music when the waves wash over it). With both attractions requiring nature (the sun and sea) to work their magic, they symbolise communication with nature – by light and by sound.
Day 4 and 5 – two days inย ล ibenik (D), including a day trip to Krka National Park
The Old Town of ล ibenik was one of our favourite Old Towns during our visit to Croatia, with slightly fewer crowds than elsewhere and cool little bars and restaurants nestled down some unique alleyways. Although we stayed at a great apartment right in the centre of the Old Town, as with most Old Towns in Croatia, car access is not allowed so we had to leave our car in a public car park located about 1km away. The walk to and from the car park, passing by the incredible architecture of the old white stone buildings, was beautiful though to say the least!
On our second day in ล ibenik, we were up early for the short drive up to Krka National Park where the well-known Krka Waterfalls are situated. Unfortunately, we only missed the 8am boat to the waterfalls by a few minutes, so grabbed a morning coffee while waiting for the 9am boat, along with the hoards of tourists arriving during the hour.
Although it was fairly crowded when we arrived, the waterfalls were teeming with people by midday when we were ready for a swim after exploring the National Park. Good luck trying to find a spot to put your towel down!
Back in ล ibinek that night, we went for a night stroll through the cobblestone streets of the Old Town and down along the harbour. Although stunning by day, it is absolutely breathtaking by night. The golden glow from the street lanterns illuminating the white stone surface of the buildings, the live music carrying across the sea from the harbour, and the warm summer’s air all combine to make for a truly romantic experience.
Day 6 – Trogir and Split (E)
On our way to our next destination, Split, we made a stopover inย Trogir, situated on a small island linked by bridges to both the mainland (to the North) and the larger island of ฤiovo (to the South). This charming Old Town set within medieval walls is a UNESCO World Heritage site and known to be one of Europe’s best preserved medieval towns. By contrast, the seaside esplanade lined with palm trees gives a modern feel with lively bars, restaurants and cafes and an array of luxury yachts and catarmans docked along the waterfront.
After wandering through the cobblestone streets and enchanting alleyways of the Old Town, we stopped in near the esplanade for an iced coffee (one of the many purchased on this trip due to the constantly scorching hot weather!)
After arriving in Split later that day, we headed for the city beach for a much-needed dip in the sea, going via Marjan Hill which overlooks Split Marina.
Day 7 – boat trip to Vis and Hvar Islands from Splitย
We were a bit unfortunate with the weather this day as we had a boat island tour scheduled. ย Although the tour still went ahead, the itinerary had to be changed due to slightly rough conditions on the sea. One of the big drawcards for the tour we chose was a visit and swim in the Blue Cave, but with the conditions being less than ideal, no boats were allowed the enter the cave that morning.
Instead, our skipper took us to a few spots on Vis Island where we visited to an old underground military tunnel once used by the Yugoslav People’s Army, meandered through the Old Town streets of the island, followed by a seaย swim just off the shore in the brilliant blue water.
Post-swim, we stopped in at a remote part of Hvar Island for a lunch of fresh grilled fish and stuffed squid. Not surprisingly, the seafood in Croatia really is next level!
We were again on the boat after lunch for the main harbour of Hvar Island. Once docked, we walked through the cobblestone streets and up the hill to the majesticย Spanish Fortress, which once protected the town of Hvar for many centuries. The view from here is one of the most photographed on Hvar Island.
After descending the hill in the scorching Croatian sun, we followed the shoreline around the island to a waterside bar for some cocktails. Although the cocktails weren’t cheap, they were worth every kuna to be enjoying them whilst taking in the stunning view of the harbour and sapphire blue water.
Day 8 – Makarska (F) via the Blue Lake and Red Lake sinkholes
On our way to Makarska, we passed a couple of signs for Modro Jezero (“Blue Lake”) showing a picture of a lake which looked perfect for a swim. Keen for something a little different, we changed our GPS coordinates last minute and decided to head there, despite adding an extra 40 minutes drive to our intended route to Makarska. Being slightly off the beaten track, we were so glad to find very few tourists here because this place was a unique gem to experience!
The Blue Lake lies in a deep sinkhole which was likely formed from the collapse of a large underground cave. It was only a short hike down a rocky path leading to the green-blue lake below. Once at the bottom of the sinkhole, it was truly awe-inspiring being completely surrounded by the vast rocky walls. The length of the lake varies depending on season, but it was about 150m to swim to the other side while we were there. Of course, Pavel had to take the challenge for the swim across, despite being slightly nervous of what may be lurking in the depths of the waters. There were some unusual, but small, water reptiles of some sort swimming near the shore, so I was hoping that a hungry Daddy Reptile wasn’t the reason for the small number of tourists amongst us.
After making it out of the Blue Lake in one piece (no Daddy Reptile sighting!), we took a short walk down the road to the neighbouring Red Lake sinkhole, the third largest sinkhole in the world. Although swimming isn’t permitted at this lake, you can’t help but be blown away by the sheer size and depth of the sinkhole. Our first word upon seeing this natural wonder was “wow!”, along with every other tourist that arrived after us. It needs to be seen to be believed.
Back on the road, we headed for Makarska in the late afternoon where we meandered around the picturesque harbour while the sun set over the water. As night set in, the atmosphere was buzzing, with numerous food stalls along the waterfront lit up with fairy lights,ย cooking up fresh seafood and playing traditional Croatian music. Being tempted by the mouth-watering smells, we soon changed our original plan of having our first restaurant dinner in Croatia (after cooking most of our own meals each day), and opted instead for grilled mackerel and wine from the night markets. As expected, the fish was fresh and cooked to perfection.
Day 9 & 10 – Dubrovnik (G)
On the road from Makarska to Dubrovnik in the morning, we stopped in along the way at a “quieter” beach (although not quiet at all!) for a morning swim and sun bake. The European beaches really make you appreciate the soft golden sand and endless space we have on the beaches back home in Australia.
We arrived in Dubrovnik in the late afternoon and went for a walk that night around the prominent Old Town. Entering the main gates of the Old Town (or “King’s Landing” for the GoT fans), we were immediately blown away with the stunning Baroque, Renaissance and Gothic buildings set amongst the marble paved streets. Being one of Croatia’s most visited attractions, the Old Town streets were lively with hundreds of people enjoying live music, and dining and drinking at the numerous restaurants and bars. It was truly fascinating to experience such a well-preserved medieval town so rich in history and remaining largely unchanged for hundreds of years. Wandering the streets, it’s quite easy to lose yourself in the Old Town due to the sheer size of it, but what a magical place to get lost in!
The following day was dedicated to exploring Dubrovnik in more depth, starting with a cable car ride to the top of Srd Hill. It is clear to see why Dubrovnik is dubbed “The Pearl of the Adriatic”. Not only is the town itself a breathtaking sight, it is surrounded by the brilliant blue Adriatic sea and numerous islands, with a backdrop of towering rugged mountains. The view from Srd Hill is highly recommended for what is considered the best panoramic views of Dubrovnik. We took the opportunity to enjoy a couple of local beers at the hilltop restaurant while taking in the spectacular scenery.
That afternoon, we walked the huge stone walls encircling the Old Town. These walls were built between the 11th to 17th centuries, protecting the former city-state within. The top of the towering walls provide the best opportunity for viewing the Old Town and its surrounds from different viewpoints. We spent about two hours walking up and down the numerous stairs, discovering old towers and fortresses along the path which all served to make this one of the greatest fortification systems of the Middle Ages.
Day 11 – Kotor, Montenegro (H)
With the plan to drive from Dubrovnik to Kotor in Montenegro this morning, we had registered our drive on BlaBla Car a couple days prior in hope of getting some people to fill our empty car seats and cover some of our petrol costs at the same time. Fortunately, we had a couple of young female travellers join us for the trip, but in hindsight, the added hassle they brought wasn’t worth the cash. Typical of their nationality, they were late arriving at the meeting point. With no short-term parking available, we spent over an hour driving in loops around the crazy traffic of Dubrovnik trying to find these girls, only to discover that they were waiting for us at a completely different spot on the other side of the town. This then made us later than scheduled for the crossing over the Croatian-Montenegrin border, for which we waited in line for over an hour to pass through. In the end, the journey took six hours, being about two hours longer than we’d originally expected.
When we finally arrived in the Kotor, we were greeted with towering limestone mountains surrounding a brilliant blue bay of water. We had planned to do a hike of the City Walls up to St. John’s Fortress which overlooks the Bay of Kotor, but after our long drive from Dubrovnik, our energy levels were running low. Instead, we took a mid-afternoon stroll through the fortified Old Town, stopping in at a restaurant for a late lunch. Walking through the main gates to the Old Town, it is easy to see why Kotor is considered one of the best preserved medieval towns of the Adriatic and a UNESCO-listed World Heritage site. With narrow cobblestone streets, squares, Romanesque churches and an abundance of medieval buildings, a stroll through here feels like a walk through the Middle Ages.
Day 12 – Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina (I)
We visited Mostar with the sole purpose of seeing its famed arch bridge, Stari Most (“Old Bridge”), even though it was also conveniently on our way to our next destination. But our visit to the Old Town of Mostar was far more than “just a bridge”, we were pleasantly surprised at how different this Old Town was in comparison to all the neighbouring Croatian and Montenegrin Old Towns we had visited prior. The architecture of Mostar reflects a variety of styles, but is largely of Islamic influence due to the long-standing Ottoman rule of Bosnia & Herzegovina until 1878. There are a few Islamic mosques scattered around the town, easily spotted from one of the town’s hills by the towering minarets. The town’s main attraction, Stari Most, was originally built under Ottoman influence in the 16th century, however was destroyed in 1993 during the Croat-Bosnian War, with the rebuild completed in 2004. With the cosmopolitan of cultural influences, the Old Town is symbolic of the reconciliation and coexistence of diverse religious and ethnic communities.
We spent the afternoon meandering through the Old Town, admiring the unique stalls selling a variety of Turkish-style homewares and souvenirs. We, of course, took a walk over Stari Most, which proved to be a little slippery in non-grippy sandals due to the steepness of the arch and the smooth walking surface! Not only are the views of the bridge itself stunning, but views from atop the bridge overlooking the Old Town, surrounding mountains and Neretva River are equally as breathtaking. Before leaving the town, we enjoyed a delicious traditional Bosnian lunch of stuffed paprika and homemade sausages. One of the best meals we had during our Balkan trip!
Day 13 – Plitvice Lakes National Park (J)
With our accomodation the night before not far from the entrance to Plitvice Lakes National Park, we were able to start our day here early (as was recommended on several web pages about the attraction). Despite arriving at 9am, the car park was already packed and the ticket queues were long. While waiting in one of the many long ticket queues near the car park, we were told by a staff member that there is another shorter ticket line near the entrance to the National Park which we would have to walk to anyway to get to the waterfalls. It was one of the best tips we got while in Croatia as it saved us about 30 minutes of queue waiting – if you’ve ever been to Croatia during peak season, you’ll understand the joy of a short queue!
The National Park is huge and split into sections which can be reached by a electric boat running across the lake several times each hour. As the day progresses, the queues for these boats get ridiculously long. We spent a few hours in the National Park walking the many walking trails around and across the lakes. The National Park is undoubtedly picturesque, with water as blue as off a remote tropical island. We were surprised to find some huge rock caves at the National Park too, which added some variety to the walk. The waterfalls were pretty, but a little underwhelming. Overall, the National Park was stunning, but in our opinion, overpriced and a little overrated. It may have been our high expectations after seeing countless videos and photos of the National Park on social media, but we didn’t feel the 180 kuna per adult entrance fee (approx $37 AUD equivalent) was value for money (not to mention an additional $1.50 per hour for parking). Understandably, a lot of the money earned from visitors is invested back into the continued preservation and maintenance of the National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, but with crazy long queues for tickets and the boats, and constantly being stuck behind hundreds of slow-walking tourists on the narrow trails, the day didn’t deliver the goods for us. Perhaps we are spoiled back home in Australia with countless National Parks, stunning landscapes, and breathtaking waterfalls, most of which we can enjoy entirely free and with much fewer crowds.
Would we recommend others to visit Plitvice National Park?ย Yes, go for the experience and beauty of it if you’re not limited by budget, but be sure to arrive super early (the earlier, the better) and go during an off-season period if you want some tranquility and a more enjoyable experience. It’s also worth noting that the entrance fees we paid are the most expensive rates during the year (peak season from 1 July to 31 August), so going outside of these months will save you some moolah.
